Paske And 4000 Islands

Hello everyone, hope you are all well and good. I now write to you from Siem Reap in Cambodia. I left you in my last blog on the sleeper bus from Vang Vieng to Pakse, I wrote that Laos as yet, hadn't really impressed, perhaps maybe I spent too much time in Vang Vieng and really hadn't seen the real Laos. The next 5-6 days changed my opinion a little but still Laos is not on the top of 'best places' to go list but as i said perhaps I didn't explore as much as I should have. So we we pick up my travels arriving in Pakse.

Friday 25th November

Champske

We arrived in Pakse at 8am in the morning, We were only staying 2 days so even after a crappy bus journey from Vang Vieng we didn't want to waste the day. Pakse as a town is pretty boring, no nightlife and is usually just a stop over for travellers on their way to the 4000 Islands. After reading the lonely planet and some good info from Ellie (who had lived there for 6months working) we decided to rent some motorbikes and explore. The Champske province was the place to visit and the 'Wat Phu' temple. The temple we had been advised, wasn't that great but the surrounding landscape and 30KM scenic ride from Pakse was supposed to be great. Aimee, who hadn't felt good on the bus journey now had a fever and decided to stay in bed. Our guesthouse was basic but nice, Aimee and Thelma shared as did Raami and Bridget, I got a single room with attached bathroom, compared to my room in Vang Vieng it was luxury and though a little more expensive at 60,000 a night was still only £4.50ish. There were a number of places to hire motorbikes, however nowhere sold Automatics, only semi-automatics with 4 gears. Myself and Raami where going to be the riders with Thelma on the back with me and Bridget with Raami. Myself and Raami were a little nervous, after a quick look over and test drive, we decided to risk it. We set off for Wat Phu at around 11am, the sun was scorching. After a shaky start and a few jumps on changing gears i soon got the hang of it, added to learning how to ride a geared bike I also had to get used to driving on the other side of the road as well as SEA's usual no rules traffic. Once out of Pakse the roads were straight and easy. we had been advise of 2 routes, scenic and a little bumpy or not scenic but easier roads. We opted for the latter given our inexperience on the bikes. However we got lost on a number of occasions and had to stop and ask locals for directions every few KM's. We, it turned out were taking the scenic route after all. We ended up in a local village along side the Mekong river. This was the real Laos, with children playing in the streets, locals going about their daily chores and shacks for shops and restaurants. We decided to grab some food, the options were limited to only noodle soup. It wasn't bad though i don't think i should have put a whole tablespoon of chili jam in it, as the hotness only added to my already over heated body. After lunch we searched for the way to Wat Phu, we had seen signs but they all seemed to point to the river, on asking a local he said that he could take us and the bikes across the river to the other side were we would be on the right road, either that we would have to go back to the main road and double back. We all, never been on what can only be called a 'raft' with bikes opted for this option. The guy wheeled on the bikes and we jumped on, it was quite surreal travelling across the river on a raft no more than 4m by 4m. We reached the other side after about 15min's at a cost of 50,000 for all of us. We soon found the bumpy, pot holed road which headed to Wat Phu, the sun was still blazing. We were in now in the Champske province, again to me the real Laos, the road lined with children, shacks and beautiful more modern temples and rice paddy fields. After a scenic 30min drive we arrived at Wat Phu. Wat Phu, or what I now call 'what a load of poo' wasn't great but we already knew that it wouldn't be great and it was a the landscape and scenery that we out for. Maybe i am being a little harsh, the temple which dates back to the 5th century is now just ruins and little of them but the surroundings just as the drive down was cool. We walked up some very steep and high steps to reach the top where the temple stood, it was mid afternoon and still hot, hot, hot. After a water a few photographs and time to stop sweating we headed back. This time we took the less scenic route and straight fast roads. We got back just before dark. That evening we ate at an Indian restaurant, here we bumped into a couple of girls we had met along the way Nicky and Nadine, they ate with us. The food was good but had to wait almost an hour and half for it too arrive.

Saturday 26th November

waterfall in the Bolaven Plateau

We had planned the day before to venture out into the Bolaven Plateau. The Plateau is home to dense Jungles and numerous fresh water, Waterfalls. The region is quite large and to explore it properly you would need a 3-4 days. We had only one day, so after reading up on Travelfish.com I found a route that would could do in a day and would be around 100KM round trip. Aimee now feeling better after resting the whole day before was also coming along. This meant hiring another bike, as Aimee was uneasy riding it meant Thelma had been with me the previous day had to hire a bike to herself. Never mind never riding a geared bike, Thelma didn't even drive back home. She was nervous but wanting to come out on the day trip she hired a geared bike. After a cautious slow start she soon got into the swing of things. We had a 1hour long journey to the first waterfall, the roads again were good and straight until we had to turn off the main road onto a dirt road with potholes. We road between coffee plantations, which the region was famous for and was the main supply for Laos and surrounding countries. We reached the water and as always we had to pay a small fee. We parked the bikes and walked down to the cooling fresh river. The waterfall nothing like Niagara of course but still was quite impressive. We stripped to out bathing suits and cooled down in the refreshing water. The weather had been hot again, now though it was starting to turn and huge black clouds filled the sky. It was getting chilly so we decided to head for lunch in a town about another 10K up the road called Pak Song. As we got within a couple of K's the sky's opened, we weren't dressed for rain or cold weather, luckily some of us me included had brought long sleeved top along, Raami unfortunately hadn't, and was only wearing a vest top. Pak Song was just a very small town with nothing going on, if you blinked you would have missed it. After getting to other end we turned round and decided to head back to Pakse. On a chance sighting Bridgett spotted what looked like a hotel just off the main road and we thought they might do good food. It was a decent hotel and they did do good food. We ordered a number of dishes to share, we had chance to warm up also before riding the 1hour long journey back to Pakse. It rained the whole way back, luckily only at times was it heavy, the rain stung your skin on impact. Thelma who in fairness had done amazing all day on her bike was feeling less than comfortable and we were even more lucky that the wind was behind us and not against us or across us. We all got back safe and sound if not soaked to the bone. We all showered and cleaned up and then went for dinner. We also booked our bus ticket for the 4000 thousand Island's for the following day, leaving at 8am and at a cost of 55,000KIP, £5.


Sunday 27th November

Sunset on Don Det

We all met at the restaurant were had booked our bus tickets at around 7:15 so we could get breakfast before our 3-4 hour journey. We had been advised that there were no ATM's on 'Don det' which is 1 of 3 main Islands where travellers stay and where we were going to staying for the next 3 days, so we all loaded up on cash and almost dead on time boarded the bus. The bus was a local one, but it was spacey and had AC so was no big deal, even if some of our bags had to be placed on the back seats. We arrived at the pier, where we would take a long boat from to the Island at just before midday. The rain from the previous day had gone and now only blue skies with blazing hot sun. We boarded the rather old and dodgy looking slow boat which, any movement of any kind sent it rocking from side to side and within 10min's we were disembarking onto the shore of Don Det. We had a place in mind as Raami had been in contact with the Irish boys Nick and Brian who we had met on the slow boat. We asked a couple of locals for directions and we set off. It was a hike to say the least especially in the mid day sun. I had my stomping boots on and finally found what we thought the guest house was. I waited for the rest to turn up. Bridgett and Raami soon joined me. Thelma and Aimee then arrived on a bike with Aimee in excruciating pain in her stomach. I hadn't realised due to my stomp. She was close to tears and really wanted to see a doctor, we asked taxi bike rider and he said it was on the other island about 5k south, luckily it was adjoined by a bridge and he would take us to the hospital. Raami, Thelma and Bridgett stayed, the guest house we had found was not the one the guys were at so they were going to stay and sort it out, I went with Aimee to the so called hospital and with 15mins we arrived at a rather old building which you would only know was a hospital due to the painted red cross over the door. We went in, it clearly wasn't a hospital though it did have 3-4 wooden slatted beds, all with legs missing in a room. The Dr wasn't around, so the taxi man went searching for him. After 10mins and Aimee still in pain the doctor arrived. He spoke no English, it was hard work and when we tried to describe the sharp pain in her stomach, i am sure he thought I was saying she had been stabbed. After 5mins of pointing, hand gestures and with the help of the taxi man the Dr soon was offering a shot of something in Aimee's ass, unsurprisingly she didn't want to tale the risk, so he then offered some pills and used the infamous south east Asia phrase 'same same' as in same as the jab, I was hoping it didn't mean 'same, same but different'. We headed back to the guys with Aimee having got 6 pills and only being charged a $1. The rest had found the Irish guys and the bungalows we they were, were only 2mins from the Pier where we had got off. So a mixture of taxi man and some of us walking we hiked back to the bungalows. They were basic but with shower and mozzie net and for 30,000 KIP a night we couldn't complain, again I had one to myself with Thelma and Aimee sharing and Raami with Bridgett. Aimee had popped 2 of the pills and whatever they were, they were working. We all, including Brian and Nick grabbed some lunch and then for the rest of the day chilled out. We were told by Brian and Nick that the sunsets were awesome so at around 5pm we headed over to the sunset side of the Island. Don Det is a very small island, only 6km's in length and maybe only at the widest point 2km across. Its popular with travellers and even though not a party place, has a couple of good lively bars to sink a few 'laosbeers'. There is plentiful of accommodation mostly ranging from 20-30,000 for a basic room or bungalow, but can get up to 150,000 for a room with AC or overlooking the Mekong river. 4000, islands are based at the end of 4350KM awesome Mekong river and in dry season the water is turquoise in colour and perfect for a lazy day tubing. For us however with Monsoon season not long passed we had the brown, murky mud looking waters. Locals say it would be clear within a few weeks. We found a nice little bar, which served cocktails and the owner let us play Raami's Ipod. The sunset was beautiful as it set over the Mekong river. Don Det is a chilled place and after Vang Vieng even the Irish were taking it easy, we had a few beers while watching sunset but then we headed back towards the main strip where we grabbed some food. The food overall on the island was pretty poor and in general if i am honest Laos food was pretty rubbish. Unlike Thai food with hundreds of dishes to choose from, i had only really come across a handful of Laos dishes. After dinner we found a place playing movies, Iron Man 2 was on when we arrived but had nearly finished. They had a huge selection and we all agreed that a bit of Anchorman was needed. We all chilled out watching Anchorman before all having a pretty early night with it not even 23:30.

Monday 28th November

The mean machine

Aimee had booked to go Kayaking which the rest of us weren't really up for, so she left early doors. The rest of us grabbed breakfast and Raami, Bridgett and the Irish had decided that they would do a little tubing. Myself and Thelma had decided against it and I wanted to catch up on a months worth of blogging. After a mammoth blog catch up, which i am sure you have all read!!! Myself and Thelma decided to hire bikes and head to the adjoining Island (where the so called hospital was) where we could see a couple of waterfalls. We got talking to another Irish guy, Tim, that morning and as we mounted our very lady like, but sturdy bikes he spied us and asked to join us, of course this wasn't a problem. So we set off on our one gear bikes sporting a lovely granny basket on the front and made the 20min ride to the ajoinig island Don Khon. It was another scorching day and within minutes we were sweating, the scenery was nice though, with lots of greenery, the road was slightly bumpy in places but not too bad even for these bikes. We decided to grab lunch, which in all fairness wasnt too bad and then set off in search of the waterfall. After a short 5min ride we saw the sign for the waterfall and headed of the main track. The waterfall was pretty impressive, it wasn't your standard waterfall, more like many little ones, like huge rapids. I was pretty impressed as were Tim and Thelma and not what we were expecting. After some photo's and cooling down we headed back to the bikes. We had seen a sign which pointed in the direction of the south of the island where you could so some Dolphin spotting for the rare Irrawaddy dolphin. We headed that way but soon got a little lost and confused with some of the signs. It would be at least a 30min ride back to Don Det and we wanted to see another sunset.

So we made our way back, had time to change and shower and met everyone at the same bar as we had been the previous day. It was Brian and Nick's last night on Don Det and probably the last time we would see them on out travels, so we all decided to have a few drinks. Brian and Raami, surprisingly were 'Power Ballad' fans (i will admit i like a good ballad) so with Ipod plugged we all drank and sang to some great classic Ballads. Luckily the bar was empty apart from a couple of women, who were soon joining in with our terrible power ballad singing. We had heard that a bar called 'Pai' was pretty good for drinking and partying. So all now a little tipsy we headed over to the other side. It was now getting on 9pm and Pai was still pretty quiet so we managed to get a table for us all. We were soon of course playing 'Ring of Fire'. The drinking game of all drinking games. The music in the bar was good and for once a bit of variety as they pumped out some drum and bass tunes, I loved and danced my ass off. It was 2am and we were being chucked out, Lilly one of the girls we had met in sunset bar earlier was staying a good distance away, so myself, Brian and Aimee decide to walk her back, as well as look for another bar which we were told might be open. We found the bar, it was closed which sucked as it wasn't far from Lilly's place which had been a proper hike to get to! So with no more drinking and bars open we just headed back to the bungalows. The others were on the veranda of one of the bungalows, they had managed to find some beer. I was done, and after 5mins of trying to keep my eyes open and blurt out some words, hit the sack.

Tuesday 29th November

I was out of cash, i had spent everything i had on me. On searching the many currency exchanges to see if they would do a cash back service on my card i came up blank. I had, had to borrow money from Thelma and Aimee for breakfast. This was bad times, i hadn't paid for my room yet, i also needed to pay for a bus to Siem Reap in Cambodia and pay for my Cambodian Visa. I was going to have to borrow some money, the American dollar was good here and widely used as well as in Cambodia. Aimee came to my rescue, lending me enough for the for mentioned things as well as for lunch, dinner, drinks for the rest of the day. We booked out bus ticket for the following day, Thelma and Raami hadn't decided on their plans yet so it was just going to be and Aimee. The bus ticket was $30 and we would leave at 8am and arrive in Siem Reap at around 9.30pm. As we were going to lunch, we bumped into Jack and Sarah. the Aussies i had met in vang Vieng. It was great to see them, they are a cool couple. The Pai bar everyday offered a free boat trip at 4pm to go out onto the Mekong to watch sunset. Myself, Thelma and Aimee were up for it and after telling Jack and Sarah they were too. So agreed to meet them at Pai bar at 3.30pm to grab a beer before hand. I chilled for the rest of the afternoon and we headed down to Pai bar for 3.30 where we met Jack and Sarah. We set out on the river in slightly overcrowded slow boat.

On the slow boat to watch sunset

They took us to a little beach island which took around 30mins to get to but sported a great view of sunset. The bar staff had brought along beers which of course you had to pay for, so we all grabbed one and sat in the sand and watched another great sunset. After sunset we headed back to Pai bar. So we ordered food and soon enough the buckets were out, dam you whisky buckets!!! Myself, Jack and Sarah shared one between us, but by the end we had all done one each, along with a number of beers. Raami and Bridgett were parting company the following day, as Raami and Thelma had decide to also to come to Siem Reap, whilst Bridgett was going back to Vientienne to meet her brother so they had some time to themselves, as did Aimee who wasn't in a drinking/party mood. By 1am i was fast asleep in the bar, Thelma woke me up and we walked back to the bungalows, saying goodbye to Jack and Sarah who even though going to Siem Reap, wouldn't be for a few days.

So that brings and end to my time in Laos, I have had a good time and met some great people, some of which I will carry on travelling with for a while. I don't seem to have had much time on my own since arriving on Koh Chang almost 2months ago. I have drank and partied I think too much and need to slow it down. I think due to the partying in Laos, i really didn't experience as much culture as I could have and wanted to, so slightly disappointed with myself, that said I have had fun times in Laos but with the Siem Reap and the famous Angor wat temples to discover i am hoping for some more cultural travelling for a while. I am now in Siem Reap and have been for a couple of days. So I am now almost up to date on my blog. I will write a new blog covering my time in Siem Reap. Thanks for reading and goodbye for now. Stay safe peeps.