Siem Reap

Hello all, as i wrote in my last blog I am almost now up to date, so hopefully no more lengthy blogs.

Wednesday 30th November

After my last night on Don Det and getting hammered on buckets with Sarah and Jack i was felling a little worse for wear to say the least. The boat was leaving at 8am from Don Det to the mainland were we would pick up a VIP bus into Cambodia and Siem Reap. By the time i had packed, showered and paid up the bill i had no time for breakfast. We boarded the long boat for the 20min ride to the mainland. Thelma, Aimee, Raami, myself and around another 50-60 travellers were guided to the what must have been the bus station waiting area. Here a local handed out immigration forms for Cambodia which we had to fill in and give back to him along with our passport and $31. $1 for him to sort out everything for us at the border. Seemed like nothing really and would hopefully save time but with 70 people all crossing at the same time it was going to be a chew no matter what. Raami and Thelma handed over their ticket for the bus and boarded a double decker luxury sleeper bus. By the time myself and Aimee had sorted our stuff and handed over our tickets we were told no more room and was pointed to a an old coach. There was much confusion, added to by that some people were going to Phnom Penh and the rest to Siem Reap.No one really knew what was going on, it was chaos. Why they didn't put everyone who was going to Siem Reap on one and the rest on the other is a mystery. Soon Raami and Thelma's bus was leaving with myself Aimee plus some guys we had met the night before Pat and Joel from Canada and an English couple Ed and (name) wondering what was going on. We soon boarded and away we went. The border was less than an our away. We all had to got off, collect our big bags and walk across the border into Cambodia. The other guys were already there waiting to be sorted out, funny thing was there bus actually took them through, again all very confusing. after an hour so passports all stamped were being handed back and Thelma and Raami's bus was again away. We had another 45min wait before we re boarded what seemed to be the same bus. The other bus had at least 20 spaces free, however our bus was over crowded with 10 people sitting in the aisles on plastic chairs. The worst thing was this journey was supposed to be 13hrs. pnom phen people were spread across both buses meaning that both buses were making detours. After a number of stops and 6hours on the bus we arrived outside phnom Penh where the Siem Reap guys would be switching to another bus. We had stopped at a cafe, I have never see so many insects and mozzies, everyone was itching from head to toe. We grabbed some food which turned out to be OK.

On the road to Siem Reap

The Pnom Phen guys were soon departing on the original bus, we had to wait another 30mins. We had been told we would get to Siem Reap at 9.30, it was now 8pm and still had 4hours to Siem Reap. finally we boarded a VIP bus but in all honesty we had less room than the coach. I manage to get some shut eye but it was far from a deep sleep. we finally arrived in Siem Reap at midnight. We hadn't got any accommodation and being so late we didn't fancy walking round, the guy on the bus had shown us a place for $10 a night for a twin room, with TV, hot shower and pool, we snapped it up! we grabbed a tuc tuc and for only $1 each arrived at the hotel 15mins later. We were cautious about being scammed but to be fair the photo he had showed stood up and we checked in. we had no idea where Raami and Thelma were and we had talked about going straight out when we arrived, however being late and tired we decided against and would surely catch up with them tomorrow. We had also planned to get up for sunrise over Angkor Wat but that again was out the question, so just hit the sack.

Thursday 1st December

Despite the late night and not sleeping well I awoke at 8am. Obviously the reason to come to Siem Reap is to see the infamous Angkor Wat. We had arranged with our Tuc tuc driver to go to Angkor for sunset, we could then get a ticket for the following day to see it at Sunrise. I decided that today would be a chill out day, with having a pool at the hotel, I didn't have to go far. The pool not huge but very clean and with a number of sun loungers on hand. We had been told that if we bought our tickets for Angkor Wat after 5pm we would be able to see the sunset for free. Our Tuc Tuc driver who had driven us from the Bus station to the hotel the night before had said that he would be our 'man' for the time we were in Siem Reap, so we had arranged with him the night before to pick us up at 4.30pm to take us to buy our tickets. Most the day I just chilled by the pool and caught some rays. At around 2pm at caught a tuc tuc into the centre of Siem Reap, our hotel was a little out of town maybe 2kM's and a tuc tuc into town was only $1. Siem Reap had a good feel about it, like many places in Laos, it had a french feel to it, with some rustic and arty buildings and lots of french sounding shops and restaurants. The main centre is full of restaurants, modern and a little more market with some local cuisines dotted around. Right in the centre is a huge indoor market, this is where we headed. As you can imagine and just as the rest of the SEA the stalls sold alot of the same stuff, however i must admit i would say that the stuff sold was on par with the MBK mall in Bangkok.We walked around for a while, buying bits and bobs. I hadn't eaten so after we visited a local restaurant where i ordered a local dish called 'Amok' curry, i had it with fish. Despite it not being spicy, it was good if not a little bland due to no spices, i come to realise later that spicy isn't really the Cambodian way. Thelma had decided to jump into mine and Aimee's tuc tuc with our driver, while Raami did is own thing. We headed back to my hotel and joined up with Aimee before heading out towards the Angkor Wat temples to buy our ticket and 4would be heading to the sunset point at one of the temples to watch sunset. from the centre of Siem Reap its around a 20min tuc tuc ride. We bought our tickets with a choice of 1 or 3 day pass. I stupidly opted for the 3 day pass at $40. After buying the ticket our driver drove us to the view point. We had a 10min walk which took us up towards one of the temples, not Angkor Wat itself as it was on the wrong side. There were a good few hundred people and we had to get in line to climb to u some very steep steps. After a shortish wait and just before the sun went down we were let in and scaled the steps almost spider man like. At the top it was overcrowded and unless you had been in the first 50 people up you had no chance of a good spot. The whole things was a little disappointing but I guess it was something you had to do. We all headed back. Our driver was waiting and he dropped Thelma off at her guesthouse before dropping myself and Aimee at ours. We had a agreed to meet for dinner on 'Pub Street' which is popular with tourists and as the name suggests full of bars as well as restaurants. The restaurants on Pub street are a little more up market so we decided to flashpacking it for the night and treat ourselves to a 'cambodian BBQ'. Myself and Raami shared one as did Thelma and Aimee. You had a choice of 5 meats and fish, they were exotic to say the least, you had the choice of Beef, Chicken, squid, snake, crocodile and Kangaroo. We decided between the 4 of us that we would get at everything from the 6. Along with the meat, you also got unlimited rice, noodles and vegetables along with a number of sauces. Its a do-it-yourself BBQ, they bring out a hot dome shaped “barbecue” and it’s a proper barbecue heated by charcoal. The meat is brought out raw and you cook it yourself. At the bottom of the grill is soup. They refill the soup every so often and in you add the noodles and veg to cook. It was a great meal, having never tried snake before, it was alright if not a little tough, I think the key with snake is not to over cook it other wise its like chewing rubber, we also for the first time that I'd been travelling treated ourselves to a bottle wine, at $11 a bottle it was pretty good and from France. After dinner Aimee and Raami decided they were going to head back. Raami having come out in a rash all over is body a few days before was constantly wanting to scratch and feeling uncomfortable, Aimee had a few things to sort out as she was leaving to meet her Boyfriend in Bangkok in a few days. Myself and Thelma decided to stay out, we joined some Canadian guys we met on  the bus on the way to Siem Reap, Joel and Tim. They left not long after so myself and Thelma went to the most famous bar in Siem Reap for backpackers 'Angkor what?' as you can see the play on words, taking the piss a little out of the name sake Temple. If you have you read previous blogs over the last few months, you will probably know what happened the rest of the night if i say the 'buckets' were soon flowing. The Angkor what bar reminded me a little of 'Q bar' in Vang Vieng, but maybe just a little bit more upper class. It had a good atmosphere and the music was good, with a mixture of travellers, tourists and locals. It wasn't a late, late one and I got a tuc tuc back to my hotel at around 3am. At this point I'll mention that i was supposed to be getting up to see sunrise over Angkor Wat at 4am, needless to say this didn't happen and in all honesty after Raami and Aimee said that it was a but of a disappointment, I am not too gutted i missed it.

Friday 2nd December

So having not made the sunrise at Angkor Wat and feeling a little worse for wear I awoke mid morning and decided to chill by the pool until midday and then end to Angkor Wat and the temples. I grabbed a tuc tuc and negotiated a price for the afternoon, $15 was the magic number, I think perhaps i paid too much but after asking others they had paid pretty much the same. I first did Angkor Wat itself, it was a hot day and was already sweating the previous nights alcohol intake from my pours. I was hassled by a number of guides and decided that one maybe a good idea at the cost of $10 for about an hour and half. It was one and one and gentleman spoke good English, even if he did have a huge whisker protruding from a large mole on his face, which I couldn't stop looking at. The tour was guide was knowledgeable and the history was interesting, however i am not sure what to think about the temple itself, in parts there was blue tarpaulin stretched between pillars, it was a simple temple with a couple of Buddha statues scattered about the 3 tiers and drawings down some sides of the building. Perhaps after seeing the Taj Mahal i was expecting more, on firstly seeing the temple my breathe wasn't taken away as it was with the Taj Mahal. For the surrounding landscape and scenery and the location of the temple(s) were more beautiful. After leaving the guide and wondering for a little while I heading back to my driver. Later, Raami told me about his experience of Angkor Wat which if i had seen may have made it more fun. He was taken in Angkor Wat chilling with his Ipod on when he came across a women who was lent against one of the Temples wall's with one hand, sprite in the other, violently chundering against one the most holy temples in the world!! Haha.. that tickled me! After bumping into Aimee she advised that I should definitely see the Ta Prohm or 'Jungle Temple', which is also known as the Tomb Raider temple as it was allegedly used in the Tomb Raider movie.

Jungle Temple

So i asked my driver who had been waiting outside the temple to take me to the Jungle Temple. 15mins later we arrived at the gates. I had a 5min walk up to the main structure, if you could call it that. I loved this Temple, it was basically an old ruins, unlike some of the other temples, its been untouched or restored, with huge trees growing out of the ruins and the jungle back drop its very scenic and atmospheric. I did however manage to get there as half of Japan descended on it also, still I much preferred this temple to the rest. After buying a water painting from a teenage Cambodian guy who I'd watch paint it, i was feeling peckish and ate at a little shack at the entrance of the Temple, I had fried noodle with chicken which for $1 was one of the best fried noodles I'd had since leaving Thailand, it could have been much spicier but both Laos and Cambodia are not one for spicy food, it made me realise how much i missed Thai spicy food. The day was getting on and even though there were many other temples to see, i decided against and enjoyed a leisurely 30min tuc tuc ride back to the hotel, taking in the scenery. On getting back at the hotel bumped into a couple of Spanish guys who we had met on the slow boat and had been doing the same route as us but just a few days behind. Aimee was also back from her day at the Temples and had spoke to Thelma and Raami and we agreed to meet on Pub Street for dinner at 8, it was her last night before leaving the following day. We met at 8pm and decided on Sushi! I have also been one for eating as much local food as possible, one to embrace the culture but also its usually much cheaper but I hadn't had sushi since Bangkok with Ellie and then I wasn't well and didn't eat much so I was looking forward to it. It was good even if it was around $8, 8 times as much as my local shack lunch. Even though it was Aimee's last night she wasn't up for a big night and headed back. Raami who had been suffering with his unknown 'rash' for a few days was feeling better and was up for a few drinks, I wasn't due to the heavy night before with Thelma, however I have the will power of a 5 year old in a candy shop and soon myself, Thelma and him where at Temple bar, another popular bar on Pub Street opposite Angkor What? soon after myself and Raami were sharing pitchers, not long after that the buckets made an appearance. We made friends with a couple of dutch girls who remained with us for the rest of the night. If you are ever in Siem Reap, look out for a the most adorable little girl selling hand made bracelets, not only was she the cutest thing in the world, she would stand outside the bars and dance and for what i am guessing is a 8 or 9 year old, she could dance!!! We later bumped into Niike and Nadine also from Holland and again we met on the slow boat, and they too joined us. The rest of the night as usual is a blur, i was later told i fell asleep in the 'roof top' bar and even when i fight broke out right where i was passed out and even hit me, i didn't wake up!! I really do need to stay off the buckets!!!

Saturday 3rd December

Floating Village

I woke the next day around 10am, Aimee who was leaving early for her flight, had already left, I don't know what time i had got in or whether we spoke, I say again i need to stay off the buckets, I blamed Raami for the previous nights antics, he later told me I had the worst will power in the world, I think he is right but when in Rome as they say. I had also now collected around 3 t-shirts, a couple from Angkor what? bar and 1 from Temple bar, given out free when bought a bucket, if this had been the case my whole trip, i could have opened my own store! Shocking! I had spoken to Raami and Thelma on FB and we agreed that we couldn't waste the day as this would be our last in Siem Reap. Apart from the Temples in Siem Reap, there were other things to do. so we decided to visit the floating village about 15K outside Siem Reap. I took a bike taxi to their guesthouse and we set off in a tuc tuc around 4, hoping we would have enough time to get there and see the 2 hour tour before it got dark. It would turn out that this is the best time to go. After a very, very bumpy but very scenic journey where we saw the real Cambodia, with rice fields after rice fields and some amazing landscape we arrived at the pier. The cost of the tour was $12 each, maybe a little pricey but we did get our own boat and driver to ourselves. The tour was amazing, I am so glad we got to do this.

The floating village was literally a floating village, called Kompong Phluk it is situated on the Tonle Sap lake full of hundreds of small open barges, mainly homes to local people, they are pretty small but each one is individual and fascinating, as well as homes they have a floating church, restaurants and would you believe a basketball court. There is no land between the boats and not even smalls gaps to jump between them, the only way is by long boat, paddle boat, motorboat or swim it. Some boats even had pets, cats and dogs and even some kept pigs. Its a poor community, the kids obviously seem to love it, playing in the water, most the adults looked sad, bored and fed up, I can understand why, with the only way of making money by fishing and selling drinks and food to tourists who pass through on the many motor boats everyday. we got the other side of the village into open water where we realised that this was the best time to come, as we had an amazing view of sunset over the lake. Just before the sun went down we headed back, stopping at restaurant which had a high view point to watch sunset. Here they also had a number of crocodiles in a water pen and huge catfish. You could pay money to feed the catfish to the crock's, we didn't and set back to the pier. A local guy had jumped on for a lift back to the pier, he spoke amazing English, he also gave us a background to the village and some history, He was a really friendly guy, which actually nearly only Cambodians are. We reached the pier, tipped the driver a couple of dollars, as well as his little son who had been on also and the guy who had jumped on, they where very thankful and appreciative for the gesture. The post sunset sky colours over the lake and rice fields was fantastic. We headed back and paid the tuc tuc driver, he charged only $4 for 15K there and 15K back as well as waiting, we 1st thought he meant $4 which we thought was still good, after Thelma tried to give him $12 he said 'too much' and gave back $8, what a decent guy, feeling bad we gave him another dollar. We then booked our bus for the following day down to Phnom Phen, leaving at 10am and would be 6 hours on a local bus, at a cost of $5, man travel in SEA is cheap. That night we ate at a local Cambodian restaurant at more than half the price as out previous 2 nights slap up meals, they were just as good. The Spanish guys plus the 2 dutch girls Niike and Nadine joined us. The rest of the night, i am sure you predict what happened, more drinking and more buckets, so much for my 'no more buckets vow'. We drank on pub street most the night but later opted to visit the Hip Hop club a short tuc tuc ride away. By far this had to be one of the craziest rides, we managed to get 8 of us 9 including driver onto the tuc tuc, with me hanging off the back, he only charged $1, so we invited him for a drink and paid for him, walking in the club with 8 westerners, he loved it and think was the highlight of his year. I left early, feeling tired and not wanting to again to fall asleep in yet another bar!!!

So I will leave it here, I really liked Siem Reap, it had a great feel about it, even if to me personally I wasn't impressed with the Temples, maybe already being to India i was templed out or was just expecting more. The Jungle Temple was impressive and the floating village and the history of it was great. I love the people here, they are so friendly and helpful and always smiling.

I have just arrived in the south of Cambodia in 'Kep', as always I am still a few days behind. Phnom Penh would a sad place with the Killing Fields and the city itself reminded me so much of India. I will blog again about my time in Phnom Phen.